Breakfast was served by the very elegant, elderly owner of the hotel. She was dressed from the last century with greying blond hair pinned high on her head. She was polite but very quiet. The whole hotel and village were quiet. I saw no-one else but the blond woman and her equally Nordic husband. He was smaller and bearded like a sea captain. He clearly knew all about the region and it seemed their family had run the hotel for generations. He sketched out a route for me on the map pointing out where I would need to take ferries. The first ferry was an hours drive away and I would have to hurry to catch it. He thought the journey to Stavanger would take eight hours but I reckoned I could shave some time off this by driving fast